[Tub]==>Outils & méthode pour changer le silent bloc ar

par **Admin** Sam 5 Sep - 10:14

The "Scott Free" Method of Replacing Drivetrain Isolators on Tube-Frame Buells

[Tub]==>Outils & méthode pour changer le silent bloc ar Dealsgaphome-medium;init:

This
is how I replaced the isolators on my M2. It's a whole lot easier than
dropping out the engine as the manual instructs (be warned, however,
that using a fork lift to reinstall the wing engine on a DC-10 was a
whole lot easier than the official McDonnell Douglas procedure, and we
all know how that turned out). Neither Buell nor I accept any
responsibility if it doesn't work right for you. Your mileage may vary.
Trained professional, closed course, don't try this at home, etc...

Step
1. Get the bike up in the air and remove the back wheel, hugger and
belt guards. Make sure you have plenty of room to move around in there.

Step
2. Put a jack (preferably with wheels) under the transmission to
support its weight when you remove the two big allen bolts that hold
the isolators to the swingarm block. These are 1/2" head allens. If you
don't have an allen socket of that size, Lafayette has a cheap
substitute: buy a 2" long by 1/2" "coupler nut" and stick it into a
(six point) 1/2" socket. Voila! An Allen substitute! So, with the jack
supporting the trans, remove the two allen bolts.

Step 3.
Assemble the tool shown below. It's made from about six inches of 3/8"
diameter threaded rod, three nuts, a cut-in-half 9/16" box wrench, and
two pieces of stout pipe that slip over the threaded rod. I actually
used a pair of Harley Sportster turn signal stalks for this.

[Tub]==>Outils & méthode pour changer le silent bloc ar Framespreader1-custom;size:600,433

When assembled, the tool looks like this:

[Tub]==>Outils & méthode pour changer le silent bloc ar Framespreader2-custom;size:600,355

Step
4. Slither up under the rear end of the bike, taking a 1/2" and 9/16"
wrench and the tool you just fabricated with you. Remove the 9/16" bolt
that fastens the turnbuckle to the swingarm carrier. Then remove the
1/2" bolt that holds the ground strap to the swingarm carrier. You'll
find the hole goes all the way through the boss on the swingarm
carrier, and it's tapped all the way through. So re-install the bolt
from the left side, so that about 1/4" of it sticks out the right side
of the boss. This provides a pin for the left end of the special tool
to align on.

Step 5. Brace the cut-down 9/16" wrench part of
the tool against the top of the swingarm carrier, and turn the nuts
(fingers should be adequate) until the other end of the tool is pressed
up firmly against the inside of the frame just above the right
isolator. See the picture below:

[Tub]==>Outils & méthode pour changer le silent bloc ar Framespreader4a-custom;size:600,423

Step
6. Now turn the nuts to spread the tool out and shift the
engine/trans/swingarm carrier to the left. This is not actually
spreading the frame; it's compressing the left isolator. You will need
to apply a lot of torque, which is why I put a long lever (a jack
handle, actually) on the wrench. The cut-down wrench that's a part of
the tool keeps the threaded rod from turning. Keep turning the wrench
and extending the tool until you can pop out the right isolator, as
seen below:

[Tub]==>Outils & méthode pour changer le silent bloc ar Framespreader3a-custom;size:600,431

Step
7. Turn the nuts on the tool the other way (the cut-down box wrench
part will flip around and brace itself against the swingarm), until you
can remove the tool.

Step 8. Give the swingarm a yank to the right, and the left isolator will drop out.

Step
9. Slip the new left isolator into place. Make sure it's aligned
properly (see your Buell service manual). Reinstall the special tool,
and repeat step 5 until you've compressed the (new) left isolator
enough to slip the new right isolator into place. Make sure the belt's
in the right place before you install the new isolator; the last thing
you want to do is button up the job and discover the belt's dropped
out! (Matter of fact, given that you've got the isolators off, inspect
the belt closely--if it's even remotely near needing replacement, slip
in a new one now. You'll thank yourself later!)

Step
10. Repeat step 7 and remove the special tool. You'll probably find the
threads on the threaded rod are a bit monged up by now, so you may need
an extra wrench to keep the rod from turning in strange ways.

Step
11. CAREFULLY start the allen bolts through the isolators and into the
swingarm pivot. This can be tricky. You may have to fiddle with the
jack a bit to align things properly. Be patient; you don't want to mess
up the threads. The last time I did this, I found that the passage of
time (and previous removal/replacement of the bolts when I did a belt
replacement two years ago) had messed the threads up slightly. A quick
cleanup with a 1/2" SAE fine tap solved the problem, and everything
went together nicely. Don't forget the Loctite! Once both bolts are
started, and you've again checked that the isolators are in the correct
alignment, tighten the piss out of the bolts, to whatever monstrous
amount of torque the manual specifies (about four grunts, if I recall
correctly).

Step
12. Re-install the turnbuckle to the swingarm carrier. You may need to
give the swingarm a little shove one way or the other to get things
lined up. Re-install the ground strap (remember it bolts to the right
side of the boss). Re-install belt guards, hugger, and back wheel.
Lower the bike, give everything one last check, and you're ready to go.